What Does It Take to Save American Heritage Wine?

Janell Dusi could sum her routines into three words: pick, prune, and press. Outside her childhood bedroom window in Paso Robles, California, rows of old grapevines that her great-grandfather planted are lined up like soldiers in a ceremonial parade. For four generations, the Dusi family, who immigrated from Italy, has tended, harvested, and sold Zinfandel grapes to local winemakers in California. As a kid, Dusi would beg her grandfather, Dante Dusi, to teach her how to make wine. She’d later become the first winemaker in her family, with a wine label that carries their name.

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